Tucked away just up the escalator from The Centrium in Arbuthnot Road, the newly opened Wild Grass is all about ‘nose to tail’ eating (and if you’re not up on foodie lingo, that equals the whole beast!) If you’re not quite brave enough for offal, there are less adventurous options available, including veggie, although the emphasis is very much on the meatier side of the menu.
Everything is organic with a capital O and made from scratch, right down to the mustard and the rather tasty homemade herb butter. Committed carnivores will be right at home here. The Aussie OBE organic and humanely reared meat ticks all the eco-geek boxes; the rest of us will just see a yummy steak on our plate. Either way, it works.
We steered well clear of the kidneys for starters and went for a baked goats cheese on bacon puff pastry. This looked and tasted good, and wasn’t overly heavy before the main event.
Again, we avoided the offal (tripe, anyone?) in favour of suckling pig with apple, which was perfectly cooked, and melt-in-your-mouth 5-hour stewed beef shin with dumplings. The menu’s naturally a little light on salads, so make sure you’re up for a feast or go for a share platter and sample a wider range of the menu.
If you still have room for dessert after all that meat, the rhubarb oatmeal crumble and stewed apple turnover are fab winter warmers. There’s also a satisfyingly stinky farmhouse cheese platter for those without a sweet tooth.
Décor-wise, Wild Grass is eco-chic all the way, with mismatched reclaimed wood, basil growing on the windowsills and a communal bench-top table as an option for casual dining.
It’s worth arriving early for an aperitif of the very moreish ‘Fresh and Wild Cucumber’ signature cocktail, which tasted so healthy that it put us in mind of a spa. No whale music here though, although there is a VIP room for a more chilled evening with friends.
3 course Set lunches at $220
3 course Set dinners at $390
Nicole was a newsreader and journalist with Sky News Australia for a decade, and has now swapped the news desk and microphone for a change table and nappy bag! Mum to baby Ava, Nicole is now enjoying casual work as a journalist, presenter, master of ceremonies and media trainer. Check out her blog http://mintmochamusings.com/. She can be reached at [email protected].