Don’t fall into the trap of trying to mask more mature skin, it’s all about enhancing what you’ve already got!
Whether we want to admit it or not, ageing is a process we all have to go through, and with it can come wrinkles, grey hair (which is very on trend at the moment thanks to the likes of Helen Mirren and Sharon Osbourne looking stunning!), a change in skin tone, texture and even the appearance of age spots. Rather than trying to slow the process down, we should embrace it and learn how best to enhance our fab features (of course a good skincare routine and regular facials will also help!). Working as a makeup artist in Hong Kong, my clients vary greatly in age, but I’ve noticed there are some common hang-ups amongst the more mature ones. So if things like the smile lines around your eyes (otherwise known as wrinkles) become more pronounced, your makeup tends to cake more, or you feel like you look much older in photos than in real life, let me help with some tips about how to apply makeup to more mature skin, as well as sharing some of my favourite product recommendations with you.
Ladies please heed my advice and don’t over powder. I 100% believe if you don’t need it – don’t use it! Or, if you do, only apply to the areas that get shiny. A lot of people feel powder is just one of those things you need to use, like a habit that’s been ingrained into your daily routine for years. But, on more mature skin, it can sometimes cause your makeup too look too matte, cakey or thick.
If you do need to stop some shine, make sure you use a translucent setting powder, as it’s finely milled and it will disappear onto your skin without causing a build-up of layers. Apply with a small domed brush, rather than a large powder brush, as this helps target a specific area and will help it to last longer.
- Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder, available online or in-store from Laura Mercier for $370
A bit like with powder, less is more! When applied correctly, concealer can hide the dark shadows under your eyes, at the same time as lifting and enhancing the area. I follow the triangle method, which some makeup artists find controversial, but I find it can be done subtly to great effect. It tends to distract from the hollows that are created under your eyes and helps lift them (which is a good thing in my book)!
In terms of application I recommend mixing your concealer with your foundation, so the consistency isn’t too thick (which is definitely something to avoid, especially if your under-eye area is dry). Applying with a brush is key, as is using a dabbing/tapping motion, rather than swiping it on. Then to finish off, I go back in with my KTK Foundation Blender Brush (which is a rounded dome brush, not a flat brush), to blend the concealer properly so it ties in seamlessly with the rest of your makeup.
- Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage, available online or in-store from Laura Mercier for $310
- IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye, available online or in-store from Sephora for $220
3. Crème Blusher
I love blusher in any formulation, be it powder or crème, because it breaks up your foundation and adds the perfect touch of colour. But I must admit that, when it comes to more mature skin, I really love a crème blusher as it gives an extra dimension of radiance to the skin. It can be a scary formulation to apply if you’ve always used powder but, once you try it, you may never go back! Also, most crème blushers can double up as a lipstick so it becomes a 2-in-1 option.
I like to apply it using a foundation brush, adding it to the apple of the cheeks in thin layers, eventually building up to the desired level of colour. If you feel you have gone overboard, then wipe off any excess blusher using your foundation brush to blur the edges and take the heat off the colour.
- Nars The Multiple in Orgasm, available online or in-store from Nars for $380
- Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge, available online or in-store from Bobbi Brown for $260
- Nudestix Nudies Bloom All Over Dewy Color Blush, available online or in-store from Sephora for $260
4. Pigmented Eyeshadows
You may have been told a highly-pigmented shadow isn’t suitable for mature skin and is for the young ones, however, I beg to differ. We do have to be more savvy when it comes to makeup products and application as we get older, but I think highly pigmented or shiny shadows can look stunning!
You can use any colour you like, but I suggest using a light shade to start with (cream, gold, bronze or rose gold). Start applying this shadow in the inner corner of your eye and stop ⅓ of the way along your lid (make sure to blend any harsh areas with a brush). Then match it with a matte shadow on the rest of your eye, to help balance the shine. I like to use colours like a smokey brown or deep plum, but really any colour you are comfortable wearing will take the edge off the pigmented shadow and do the trick! Again, always remember to blend, blend, blend.
- MAC Dazzleshadow, available online or in-store from MAC for $190
- Too Faced Peaches & Cream Shake Your Palm Palms Eyeshadow Palette, available online or in-store from Sephora for $200
Good luck implementing these tips and tricks into your routine!